Flavor of the Month
When i think japanese food, I confess, I always think in terms of a good sushi joint being one with a great spicy tuna roll and yummy seaweed, not much more. That limited thinking dissolved after dining at Suzuki (114 W. 47th St., 212.278.0010). The new subterranean spot in Midtown, arrived at through two darkly lit stairways that give the feeling of a rock club, is the real deal when it comes to Japanese fare. The restaurant serves Gozen-style lunches—set meals that are composed of rice, a main dish, a side dish, Japanese pickles and soup. I opted for the Maguro Zanmai Gozen, which consisted of a couple of small appetizers; a lovely tricolor tuna sashimi, as well as rice, pickles and miso soup (the darkest, muskiest soup I ever tasted). The portions are not large, but exotic flavors dominate—pure ginger, smoky ponzu, lemongrass. The dining room is narrow and luxurious, bordered by plush, gem-toned banquettes and mostly filled with parties of Asian businessmen. Speaking of business, FiDi, (the Wall Street neighborhood, reinvented), has a new American restaurant, Westville (110 Wall St., 212.741.4780), offering vegetable-forward dishes like crispy vegan quinoa with artichoke burgers, but omnivores are looked after, too, with fish sandwiches, grilled chicken and hanger steak. And while steak, is the main event at T-Bar Steak & Lounge (1278 Third Ave., 212.772.0404)—you can pick from classic cuts like porterhouse and strip steaks—the sleek resto has other offerings you don’t typically see in steak houses, like Mediterranean branzino, chicken Milanese and veal ragout. Finally, gallop south toward Brooklyn for The Four Horsemen (295 Grand St., Williamsburg, Brooklyn, 718.599.4900), an inviting wine bar/eatery with a small-plate menu—dried skate wing, butter beans fra diavolo, potato gnocchi—that is most appealing.