You Don't Have To Be Jewish . . .

You Don't Have To Be Jewish . . .

. . .  to like Kosher food. It's often fresher, the ingredients better quality. So when a new Kosher restaurant opened up in my Murray Hill neighborhood, what's a girl to do?

The scene at La Brochette

La Brochette intriguingly bills itself as a steakhouse and sushi bar.  Yes, the latter presents some challenges. The Asian chef slicing and dicing behind the counter deals with them by avoiding shellfish or employing surimi in its stead, cunniningly using soy sauces—as in the special roll I had, made with crispy rice—to compensate for the often-sweet taste of that imitation crabmeat. In fact, the menu contains a number of artful workarounds: a fragrant pesto olive oil, instead of butter, accompanies the bread; soy milk does the duty of dairy in creamed spinach and a silky-smooth chocolate mousse for dessert.

But I'm getting ahead of the main event: the meat. There are nine, count 'em nine, different cuts of beef, including a prime rib (grilled like a steak, instead of roasted—an atypical, but tasty, preparation). I had that, while my companion had a melt-in-your-mouth Delmonico, served (as if the 22-oz. portion wasn't decadent enough) with a marrow bone. And for you non-beefeaters, there are several fish, chicken and pasta dishes.

Decorated with minimalist chic, the tri-level space is serene and seductively low-lit. The service (often a weak spot with newcomers) was cordial and prompt. The restaurant delivers, as well (a rarity in upscale eateries). But then, La Brochette is an observant place that's rather unconventional—in all the best ways.

» La Brochette, 340 Lexington Ave., 221.972.2200