Nios: Dining in the Theater District

Nios: Dining in the Theater District

(Courtesy Muse Hotel)

This stylish spot may be named for a Greek island but don’t expect Mediterranean food. If the cooking needs an identity, consider Modern American and even “extraordinary.” Credit the sophisticated tastes and aesthetic platings to smart chef Jarett Brodie, whose résumé includes time with Jean-Georges Vongerichten and David Bouley.

Nios will delight those bemoaning a lack of fine food in the Theater District. Recent highlights include tuna tataki (yellowfin graced by enoki and ginger-soy dressing); crisby pork belly and scallop with apple-rosemary purée; sirloin strip with truffle potato, trumpets, figs in a demi-glace; and short ribs ravioli with kale, Parmesan, chestnuts and arugula pesto. Seafood stars in entrées like red snapper with truffled dashi, lump crab, snow peas and ginger; or tea-smoked salmon with cipollini puree and persimmon-yuzu sauce.

Expect well-paired wines from the gleaming wine cellar wall and lush desserts like chocolate mousse cake, sticky toffee pudding and rich gelati. Seat options: tables for two or for “sharing” groups, plus a sleek bar with silent TVs for solo diners. The restrooms provide a bit of whimsy with door labels like “Vanity” and “Macho” and over-the-top decor to match.

Certainly Nios proves convenient for pre-theater meals. Note 5-8 pm for small plates or a prix fixe of three courses plus a Portuguese port ($52); 4-10 pm full à la carte menu; and 10-11 pm a bar menu. Breakfast daily, dinner Tu-Sa 5-10 pm, bar 3 pm-1 am. 

Nios, beside the Muse hotel, 130 W. 46th St., btw Sixth and Seventh aves., 877.692.6873, www.themusehotel.com and www.niosrestaurant.com