Recipe for Romance

photographed by Noah Fecks

Why do evenings of seduction often revolve around dinner? Some of the town's top toques reveal how food, ambience and service set the mood.

Recipe for Romance
Food texture is a turn-on for the namesake chef (left) of Todd English at The Plaza Food Halls, as exhibited by one of his specialties (right): handmade, plump and juicy shrimp, chicken and pork dumplings.

Perhaps the most profoundly intimate experience you can share with your significant other—aside from you know what—is dining out together. Tempting aromas, beautiful sights, pleasurable flavors, suggestive sounds … The simple act of eating, albeit eating well, can simultaneously stimulate multiple senses. No wonder chefs are articulate and outspoken about exactly what makes supping so seductive.

"There are only a couple of things I can think of that are more intimate than sharing a meal," reveals Chef Jonathan Benno of Lincoln Ristorante (142 W. 65th St., 212.359.6500). When he and his wife (also a chef) go out on the town, they sample foods they've never tried before, often splitting the dishes, and savoring the closeness that comparing impressions invariably evokes: "The shared dialogue, whether spoken or not," as Benno puts it. His Lincoln patrons can enjoy a similar experience by ordering a progression of modern Italian courses to share: commencing with a few piccoli piatti (small vegetable plates), continuing with a pasta, such as the sumptuously soft gnudi di ricotta (cheese-filled dumplings) and climaxing with, say, a branzino per due, a large sea bass with olives designed for twosomes.


Recipe for Romance
"Romance starts with flirting over Italian food," maintains BiCE Ristorante Executive Chef Silverio Chavez (left). Case in point: grilled branzino di limone (right), ideal for sharing.

Some chefs think the act of sharing fosters romance, while others emphasize the dishes themselves. At Red Rooster Harlem (310 Lenox Ave., 212.792.9001), plentiful, soul-satisfying, calories-be-damned comfort food makes guests feel "special and lush," says Chef/owner Marcus Samuelsson. Among his favorites: the Harlem Chowder for two, a decadent mélange of lobster (rich in zinc, which purportedly increases virility), corn and potatoes swimming in a creamy broth; and warm, moist Yankee Pot Roast for two, a slow-cooked short rib with buttermilk potatoes au gratin. And to drink before, after or during? Perhaps a suggestively named concoction, such as the Spicy Lady (Bulldog gin, jalapeño/rosemary syrup, lemon juice, Creole bitters).

Even homespun macaroni and cheese can be considered romantic because "it's creamy and luscious," agrees Todd English, the eponymous chef of Todd English at The Plaza Food Halls (The Shops at The Plaza, 1 W. 59th St., 212.986.9260). For him, sensuality comes from texture. If soft and supple turns you on, he recommends foods that "you can suck off the spoon"—or shell. It's no accident that eating oysters, one of the most famed libido-rousers, involves slurping, licking and gliding down the throat. Chef English's aphrodisiac of choice happens to be sea urchin. "Texturally, it's very sensuous, erotic and exotic at the same time," he explains. But whatever the sea creature, dip it in something spicy, such as The Plaza Food Halls' tellicherry pepper mignonette, because "hot makes you hot."

Recipe for Romance
Red Rooster Harlem Chef/owner Marcus Samuelsson (left) believes in smiling staffers and soul-satisfying comfort food. One of his hearty appetizers (right): jerk bacon and egg atop brown beans and pikliz (a Haitian pickled vegetable slaw).

Sensual enhancement is the aim of Executive Chef/co-owner Paul Liebrandt of Corton (239 W. Broadway, 212.219.2777). "Eating is the one activity where we have all the human brain's senses used all at once," he declares. To enhance guests' perceptions, and help them hone in on the cuisine, Corton's dining room is intentionally minimalist, a white-on-white room warmed with a rim of lighting around the ceiling's edges. "What we do here is give people a sense of space and a nice relaxing feel. You can hear your partner talk and have a conversation, and the food is the backbone that brings it all together," explains Chef Liebrandt. That food—technically modern French, though the chef's been inspired by fare from around the world—is served in six- or eight-course tasting menus, with each course presented so artfully one would think it should be on a pedestal in a museum. After all, we eat with our eyes first.

Presentation and pace also play a key role at Gordon Ramsay at The London (The London NYC, 151 W. 54th St., 212.468.8888) where Executive Chef Markus Glocker oversees the elegant, peaceful, pale-green dining room. "It's quiet with no music," he explains, "so you can be very focused on the company you're keeping." But don't believe that it's just your companion who is paying close attention to you. Chef Glocker communicates constantly with his front-of-house staff to orchestrate each table's parade of contemporary French courses, figuring when couples want to be left alone and when they want attending. "I know where they are from, what they are doing, if we need to speed things up or slow things down," he explains. Guests feel pampered by not only this musical production-like attention to timing, but also the equally theatrical service, from the meal's beginning—a champagne trolley makes a stop at each table—to its end, with an array of delectable, handmade chocolates from the bonbon cart.


Recipe for Romance
At Eleven Madison Park, desserts such as quince poached with lemon and apple (right) provide a sweet finish to a meal. It's one of the creations for canoodling couples by Pastry Chef Angela Pinkerton (left).

Of course, man does not live—or seduce—by bread alone. "If you have good food but a bad wine, then you won't have a romantic feeling," believes Leo Schneemann, beverage director of cozy, candlelit Wallsé (344 W. 11th St., 212.352.2300). "When paired with food, wine supports the tastes and flavors of the dish and completes the sensory experience. That's exactly what a romantic dinner should be—a sensory experience with multiple components adding different layers to the meal." With lobster (a mainstay of amorously oriented menus), Schneemann likes a light yellow Riesling, whose floral delicacy doesn't overpower the crustacean's "wonderful subtle flavor." For sexy starters, such as the foie gras Wallsé serves terrine-style with pear gelée and brioche, he recommends a Zierfandler, with "lots of ripe pear, almond and pineapple flavors. The wine and the terrine not only balance out one another, but actually enhance each other's appeal —much like a highly compatible couple."

Every seductive dinner should crescendo with something sweet. "The history of dessert is that it was meant to be a pick-me-up before a romantic night," theorizes Lincoln's Jonathan Benno. While its efficacy has never been scientifically proven, chocolate remains the aphrodisiac of choice, as Pastry Chef Angela Pinkerton knows. One of her most popular confections for couples in the mood at Eleven Madison Park (11 Madison Ave., 212.889.0905) is her chocolate malted milkshake, a sophisticated yet playful interpretation of the soda shop standby. Layers of milk chocolate nougat, chocolate mousse and vanilla yogurt sauce are topped with a malted milk meringue and served with salted, chocolate olive oil-drizzled malted milk ice cream.


Recipe for Romance
Gordon Ramsay at The London Executive Chef Markus Glocker (left) matches a meal's pace to his diners' mood, carefully orchestrating the arrival of dishes such as a short rib and cauliflower salad (right).

Shared plates, stimulated senses, well-orchestrated service all make a meal romantic. But there's another key ingredient: the chef's passion. "When I cook for someone, it has to be with love," says Silverio Chavez, executive chef of elegant Milanese bistro BiCE Ristorante (7 E. 54th St., 212.688.1999). The maestro puts "a lot of heart" into dishes like his slow-roasted osso buco—but then, he deems Italian cucina in general to be the most conducive to seduction. "You can flirt over the antipasti, get to know each other over pastas, think of possibilities with the entrées and laugh during the dolce. Perfecto!"