Über Beauty
In the eye of the beholder and beyond your wildest dreams.
Paris has its Gallic charm and Tokyo is full of technological innovation, but New York City is the capital of looking good, the epicenter of trendsetting personal style. Here, hair and makeup pros reveal what is in vogue for the spring and summer seasons.
Those Lips
Dramatic colors are being used to accentuate the most sensual part of the face—the lips. Makeup artist and beauty expert Vinnetta Scrivo, who has worked on Mariel Hemingway, Janeane Garafalo, Lorraine Bracco and other famous faces, says lip glosses are “emulating spring flowers—pretty apricots and pinks. The hues are bright, but the textures are sheer, so just a hint of color ends up on the lips.”
After years of favoring earthy tones, “women are now asking for red,” says Giella Poblocki, founder of GIELLA Custom Blend Cosmetics, available at Henri Bendel (712 Fifth Ave., 1-212-904-7969). “Dark-haired women look best in shades that are deep and vibrant, to contrast with their skin tone, while blondes or light brunettes should go with brownish reds.” Since these colors tend to bleed at the mouth’s edges, she recommends lip liner—not the traditional hard pencil, but one of the new soft, creamy crayons that match, or are slightly darker than, the lip shade.
Those Eyes
Eyes are also drawing attention, as demonstrated by the popularity of singer-songwriter-performance artist Lady Gaga and her mile-long lashes. Makeup artist Keri Berman, who specializes in brides and at least one divorcée (Sarah Ferguson, Duchess of York), says the look of the moment features smoky-shaded eyes in tones “from the blue, green, plum and gold families.” This sultry, romantic palette is “best paired with a neutral lip gloss,” she adds.
Bright, happy-hued shadows—ocean blues, lilac and berry tones—are also coloring eyelids right now. “People see them and, at first, go, ‘Oh, no, no,’” laughs Cat Tatman, director of product development for glominerals, a mineral-based makeup line available at Devachan Salon and Spa (560 Broadway, 1-212-274-8686), “but you can lightly wash the eyelid with it, or just apply it to the eye crease, for a nice pop of color without looking crazy.” As an alternative, Tatman advises forgoing colored shadows completely in favor of sultry, retro cat’s eyes, dramatically drawn with a swirl of eyeliner that wings upward at the corners, à la Angelina Jolie, Brigitte Bardot (circa 1960s) and actress Olivia Wilde as Dr. Remy “Thirteen” Hadley on Fox TV’s House MD (2004-present).
That Face
“Skin is in,” declares makeup artist Keira Karlin, whose work has graced People magazine covers and Saturday Night Live broadcasts. Masklike coverage is out, she explains, while a fresh, clean, dewy complexion is in. Water-based foundation or tinted moisturizer, instead of a full coverage base, delivers that barely-there look. Karlin also tops things off with highlighting blush, such as one of the bronzing Shimmer Blocks from Bobbi Brown, for a glow that “looks like it’s coming from within.”
A natural extension of the no-makeup look is wearing a monochromatic palette, says Thomas McEntee, a makeup artist at miomia (318 Bedford Ave., Brooklyn, 1-718-490-5599), whose private clients include Joan Jett and Serena Williams. By that, he means eyes, cheeks and lips all in the same, subtle shades, specifically corals, peaches and fleshy tones. Several new products are designed to be used on more than one feature, he notes, so “you don’t need layers and layers or five different colors.”
That Hair
In terms of texture, “I see a bohemian, wavy look, tying in with the khaki/safari looks in fashion,” states Amoy Pitters, who has styled the hair of models (Naomi Campbell, Joy Bryant) and designers (John Galliano, Donatella Versace). At her salon, Amoy Couture Hair (874 Lexington Ave., 2nd fl., 1-212-529-5153), she’s using curling irons, curling balm and even rollers to create “a nice beautiful cascade of curls.”
Even those going straight want some soft waves in their tresses, which is why Brazilian keratin treatments “have really taken root,” says Alonso Salguero, president of Salon Ziba (200 W. 57th St., 1-212-767-0577). The process deposits keratin, a protein, on the hair and, when heat is applied, seals it into the cuticle. This de-frizzes and straightens, but it doesn’t make strands as ramrod straight as older thermal reconditioning treatments. The keratin treatment reduces blow-drying time (which is healthier for the hair) and lasts three to four months.
Most women are too busy to visit a hair salon every three weeks, so they prefer “a grow-out style, a cut that will evolve beautifully over time,” says John Barrett, owner of the The John Barrett Salon at Bergdorf Goodman (754 Fifth Ave., 9th fl., 1-212-872-2700). That’s partly why his senior stylist, Marco Maranghello, suggests a shoulder-length cut, which is versatile and able to take full advantage of hair accessories that make an important fashion statement. Rhinestone-studded clips, vintage tortoiseshell combs, silk flowers—stick one in your locks and “you go from natural to sophisticated,” he advises.
Whatever the length, a sleek, sculpted ’do is out. What’s fresh is a silhouette that’s shaped but soft, loose and layered for lots of movement. To achieve it, “we cut into the hair on a diagonal,” explains James Corbett, owner of James Corbett Studio and Organic Spa (32 Union Sq. E., Ste. 211 & 311, 1-212-388-1296). “Instead of producing that perfect, every-hair-is-in-place look, it’s a controlled chaos.” Also big are bangs—either short and fringelike or long and asymmetrical—which have the bonus of hiding a wrinkled brow. “Bangs are like Botox for women on a budget,” Corbett confides.
“A cut is naked without color,” maintains Clint Wilson, creative director of Sassoon Salon (7 W. 56th St., 1-212-535-9200). Highlights in soft hues of red, blond and light brown are in demand, but dramatic contrasts and streaks are not. Instead, one tint blends into another. “There can be as many as four different shades, but it looks like one,” he says. To get this season’s natural, sun-kissed highlights, Balayage is the technique of choice at the Eva Scrivo Salon (50 Bond St., 1-212-677-7315). Lightener is literally painted with a brush onto loose hair (rather than being wrapped in foil squares). Like an artist, the stylist precisely applies color, even onto individual strands, strategically scattering it about the head.
Hot trends aside, experts agree it’s important to express your individuality. Ultimately, the secret of New York City style is adapting it to suit you best.
It’s A Man’s World
The cable TV show Mad Men (AMC, 2007-present) has done a lot for men’s hair, says Sassoon Salon’s Clint Wilson. “No more messiness or shagginess.” Still, after three seasons, the show’s 1960s-style tailored look has evolved. “Length has come back,” he continues, mainly on the top of heads—either brushed back with a part or flopping forward—while the back and sides are short and close around the ears.
Beards are getting longer, too, says Ruben Aronov, assistant manager of F.S.C. Barber (8 Rivington St., 1-212-673-3209). The gents who wait patiently to climb into old-fashioned barber chairs aren’t receiving a straight, shaved line across the nape anymore. Instead, the staff often uses clippers to create a gradual fade-into-the-neck effect. “Men don’t want to look like they just came out of a barbershop or salon,” Aronov says. This style makes hair seem “managed, but not too manicured.”
Speaking of manicures, men are getting them, and pedicures, too, says Gabriela Contino, manicurist at Frédéric Fekkai at the Mark Hotel (25 E. 77th St., 1-212-396-4600). Most keep their fingertips clear, simply buffed or covered with a colorless matte finish.
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