Flavor of the Month

The Four Seasons restaurant (42 E. 49th St., 212.754.9494), an early example of rarefied city dining when it first opened in 1959, has reestablished itself in a new location, just as haute and elegant as the original. A sunken glass and gold leaf bar, and hand-painted beaded window treatments play to an ambience both serene and lush, appropriate for a menu that includes dishes such as chateaubriand, farmhouse duck and classic dessert soufflé.

Chef/restaurateur Daniel Boulud also knows a thing or two about haute (his restaurants have won numerous awards, both in NYC and around the world), and there may be no better example of his talent for turning something simple into sumptuous as his Grapefruit Givré dessert at Boulud Sud (20 W. 64th St., 212.595.1313), a wondrous mix of grapefruit, shredded halva and sweet jam.

If you prefer something a bit more relaxed but still heavily sought-after, try “Iron Chef” Masaharu Morimoto’s casual Momosan Ramen & Sake (342 Lexington Ave., 646.201.5529), a tightly spaced, perennially packed slice of gastronomic heaven for devout ramen seekers.

And, keeping to the topic of all things Asian, Hachibei (238 E. 53rd St., 212.888.8003) has reformatted its menu with a focus on eel, a Japanese delicacy that you can enjoy by choosing an Unaju Set (whole grilled eel atop rice with clear soup and garnishes). But don’t even try to get the recipe for the secret sauce.