Any Dish You Want, As Long As It's Steak

Any Dish You Want, As Long As It's Steak

A waitress preparing the signature (and only) dish at Le Relais de Venise

Many a restaurant pitches its “homey” feel. But dining at Le Relais de Venise L’Entrecôte really is like eating at home – because there’s only one main course served: steak. A simple hangar steak, adorned with a secret green, mustardy sauce. Oh, and frites. Lots of frites. There’s a green salad with walnuts to start, too, and desserts (the latter not included in the prix fixe). But you probably won’t have room, because after you polish off your first portion of steak and frites, the waitress brings ‘round—more steak and frites.

Le Relais started in Paris, back in 1959; there are several branches in London, as well. The Midtown Manhattan location is much younger, but it has the cozy, been-there-for-years vibe of a traditional bistro: banquettes (red, bien sûr), dark wood tables and serving stations. The servers are clad in black dresses with white collars and frilly little aprons, like maids in a 1930s movie. Avant-garde it ain’t. And steak snobs may sneer – no Kobe beef aged for 31 days from a cow bottle-fed on sake and fresh grass while being read poetry here. It’s simple, predictable, very much maman’s cooking. And sometimes you want that.

» Le Relais de Venise L’Entrecôte, 590 Lexington Ave. at E. 52nd St., 212.758.3989